^®py ^ MS^^S68t85JC8:8teyce09»?C8a^ 



price 50 (rente. 




,..BY... 
J. A. SUMMERS. 



PUBLISHED BY 

C. E. TWOMBLY, 
BOSTON. 



BH 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, 

COPYRIGHT OFFICE. 

No registration of title of this book 
as a preliminary to copyright protec- 
tion has been found. 

MA/ 31 190/ 

Forwarded to Order Division — 



(6, i, 1906—2,000.) 



(Date) 



Squabs 
For Profit 



BY 
J. A. SUMMERS. 

PRICE 50 CENTS. 



Jj; «)ubU»ber, ^ 
^1 Soston, \j> 



UBRARY of CONGRESS 
Two Copies Received 

APK 9 1907 

Copyrlfht Entry 

GLASS XKC, No. 

COPY B. 



A 



Clor'YKIOHTEO ISO' 



J. A. StTMMERS. 



COHYRICiHT l'l'Ht'HASK]> 1 OOO 



O. K. TwM);viuLY, 



BOSTON. 



F^eceived from 
Copyright Office, 



ffj.W 






Hn&ci 



Page. 



Attentiou to Squabs, 












. 31 


Breediiifi^ Houses, 












7 


Breeders, 












. 14 


Breeders, Care of 












. 28 


Care of Breeders, 












. 28 


Canker in Throat, 












. 42 


Crop, Sour 












. 44 


Catarrh, Influenza or 












. 44 


Cholera, 












45 


Dressino- S(iuabs, 












34 


Diseases, 












40 


Distemper, 












47 


E.o^os, Marking 












30 


Enteritis, 












44 


Fly, Run or Wire 












12 


Food and Feeding, 












20 


Feathers a Profit, 












37 


Going Light, 












41 


Houses, Breeding 












7 


Incubation, 












31 


Influenza or Catarrh, 












44 


Lice, 












32 


Lump in Throat, 












46 


Mating, 












18 


Marking Eggs, 












30 


Manure a Profit, 












37 


Purchasing, 












U) 


Profit, Feathers a 












37 


Profit, Manure a 












37 


Profit, 70 per cent 












37 


Salt, 












26 


Squabs, Attention to 












31 


Squabs, Dressing 












35 


Shipping, 












36 


Sour Crop, 












44 


Throat, Canker in 












42 


Throat, Lump in 


. 










46 


Vomiting, . 












46 


Water, 












26 


Worms, 












. 45 



D 



REFACE. 



The autlior of this littU' book lias been a success- 
ful squab raiser for a number of years, but tlie same as 
otliers found many obstacles when commencing business. 
I felt in need of reliable information myself, and it is 
for ihose in the same predicament, an<l those who made 
inquiries, that T publish this V)ook. 



A, Summers, 



CHALEONT, PA 




ENGLISH RUNTS. 
(Keprotluced from Fulton's Book of Pigeons.) 



Squabs for profit- 



BREEDING HOUSES. 

IN commencing this work a few i)oints in reference to 
the proper location and builrling for raising squabs, 
miglit be worthy of mention, p.irticularly for the 
benefit of those commencing business. The most ex- 
pensive buildings do not necessarily bring a success in 
the squab business, but the one I here describe I have 
found after experimenting with many houses to be as 
cheap as ajiy, and answering the )>urp()se just as well. 
If on(^ lias the capital, tongued and grooved boards can 
be used, and the heating system adapted. This has the 
tendency to lower the death late of squabs frozen in the 
Winter, but at the same time it appears to be detri- 
mental to the old birds health, for if the buildings ai-e 
heated inside, the birds are very liable to contract a 
severe cold when coming out into the cold atmosphere 
in the runs. T have not as yet adapted the heating sys- 
tem, but some la;ge squab dealers have and claim bene- 
fit from it. The following description of building I 
lind the best for this purpose and the cheapness of the 
same might be a great advantage in the start. 



The location of the breeding house is one of the 
first to be considered. The house should be erected up 
on a dry surface, face the South, and should be built if 
possible next to some larger building, such as a stable 
or barn so as not to be too much exposed to the cold 
winds of the North and West in Winter. The most ex- 
pensive houses are of not much account if they are not 
built in the proper location, and kept in a good sani- 
tary condition at all times. Particular pains mu>t be 
taken in the construction of buildings, and care of the 
birds and the results will be favorable and encouraging. 
Squabs bring high prices in Winter, and as it is the 
hardest time of the year to successfully raise them, to 
select a good warm ])lace for the building is one of the 
main points to be considered. 

In constructing the breeding house use only good 
lumber, Hemlock boards 1'2 inches wide, 16 feet in 
length and an inch in thickness 1 find the best for mak- 
ing pigeon houses, cheaper lumber can of course be 
used for the roof, as felt roofing should go over it. 
Hemlock scantling 2x4 should be used in making th^ 
frame work. 

The building should be 82 feet in length, 10 feet 
in width, 8 feet high in front and 7 feet high in the 
rear. The roof can be made of hemlock boards 1 inch 
thick, tongued and grooved, 1 foot wide over which 
tack three ply felt roofing. This felt lasts a great while, 
but the two ply may only last a season or two, so it 
will be more economical in the end to purchase the for- 
mer. To preserve the roof a coat of tar and sand or 



9 

slag cement can be applied over tl»e felt every Spring 
and Fall at least. 

Never use slate for roofing breeding houses, for in 
Winter it gets exceeding cold, and in Summer exti'eme- 
ly hot, endangering the i'.ves of the birds building in 
the higher nests. A good plan is to have a double roof, 
i. e. have an inner one built a few inches below the out- 
er, leaving an opening at the ends to allow a draught to 
pass through in Summer. 'J'his will keej) out a great 
amount of heat from the sun's rays. Have several 
transoms near the roof, at the ends of the house, M'hich 
should be left ojumi in Summer. Four windows 2 x ;> 
feet should be put in tiie front, and one of the same size 
at the East end, all to be midway between the roof and 
the flooi-, thereby admitting plenty of sunlight, of which 
the birds are exceedingly fond. Have the windows 
put in so they can be slid l)ack <>ii the inside for the 
hot weather, 'i'he house should be divided into four 
compartments, using lath or wire netting for making 
the partitions. 

The interior of the building must have boxes <»r 
nests on all sides, which should be a foot square with a 
strip three inches wide nailed in the front to prevent 
the squabs from falling out. Never have the nests 
made less than 1 foot in height for if any lower, the 
birds nesting in the higher ones Avill be continually 
picking at the heads of those in the row underneath, 
therefore make them ])letity high and avoid consider- 
able disturbance. If birds nesting side by side are 
constantlv tightinii; from the front of the nests, nail a 



10 

small board outside and between the nest so they can- 
not see one another. Allow two nests for each pair 
of birds, for good breeders will have built a new nest 
and of times have eggs again, before the squabs in their 
other nest have attained marketable size. The use of 
nest pans I do not fancy and think it a waste of money, 
for most of them are entirely too small, and the squabs 
are liable to tumble out and perish, but if the proper 
size which is 10 inches at least across the top and 3 to 4 
inches deep can be had, at a reasonable outlay, they 
may prove an advantage. A building of this size 
will comfortably house 100 pair of birds; and of course 
can be made any desired length at will. 

The floor sliould be made of the best hard lumber, 
yellow pine boards 1 inch in thickness being prefer- 
able. They should be put close together so no draught 
or dampness can get up between the cracks. Never 
make cement or concrete floors for pigeon houses as 
they are entirely too cold in Winter and cause more or 
less dampness to arise. I>oard floors I find the health- 
iest and easiest to clean, particularly if coarse pine saw- 
dust is strewn upon it. This makes cleaning easy, for 
what is more detestable than to undertake to clean a 
pigeon house, when the droppings have adhered to the 
bare boards and become as hard as cement. One tenth 
of the labor at cleaning is saved by using saw-dust, 
which is also the best absorbent known for this pur- 
pose. 

As rats are a great annoyance and are ver}^ detri- 
mental to tlio success of the squ:il) raiser to a certain 



n 

extent, they sliould never l)e allowed any means in 
which to enter the breeding house. A good plan is to 
have the house raised 6 inches fi'oni the grouiid and 
board up all around with the exception of a small open- 
ing in one end large enough to allow the admittance of 
the cat. Since adopting this plan the author has not 
once been troubled with these destinctive creatures. 
Mice do not do any particular harm, but they too should 
be kept from the loft as they will annoy the birds in 
many ways. 




RUN OR WIRE FLY. 



THE run or fly is built in the front of the breeding 
house and for the above described building 
should be '25 feet in length, and as high as the 
building. The birds require plenty of room in which 
to exercise themselves and the larger the better. For 
this purpose I find the 1 inch mesh wire netting the 
most suitable, as this size will not admit the pesky spar- 
row, which otherwise would gain entrance into the 
building and consume large quantities of feed. 

In making the run use good cedar i>osts and 2xo 
hemlock scantling. Plant the posts dee]) into the 
o-round ( alter coating with tar to ])revent premature 
rottino- ) for if planted too shallow they will be heaved 
up more and more each Winter by the frost and after a 
few Winters have passed, your run wmU have the ap- 
pearance of ocean waves. After the frame- work has 
been completed, nail aboard 1 foot wide around the 
bottom, then apply the netting all around ?nd over the 
top. 

The run to correspond with the house must of 
course be divided into four compartments, gates being 
made at the lower end to get into each compartment. 



13 

Several perches running from side to side are placed 
in tbe run for the birds to light upon. On the ground 
put a layer of gravel or coarse sand to the depth of sev- 
eral inches, which is very essential to the health of the 
birds, and should be loosened up occasionally This 
should be taken out every few months and replaced 
with a fresh supply. 

If a part of a barn or any warm building is un- 
occupied and will answer the purpose of a pigeon loft, 
of course the expense of erecting a building expressly 
is not necessary, but one thing is necesaary if they are 
to thrive and do their best, they must in some way 
have access to the ground. One can make a run out- 
ride ofsuch a place and have almost as good a breeding 
house as the one above described. 



Si 




r^ 




*<6^ 



BREEDERS. 



IX my experience I find the Homer i. e. the working 
Homer the best alround bird for breeding squabs 

for market. The squabs they produce are always 
plump, fat, and have a nice light color. 

Common pigeons are generally good at breeding? 
especially if given their freedom, l)ut when housed up 
do not thrive so well as the Homers. A fact I niight 
mention at this time, is that the diseases such as Going 
Light and Canker, attack the common variety and 
Duchesse sooner than the Homers, according to ray ex- 
perience, when the former were housed up. Many 
starting in this business buy large numbers of the com- 
inon birds, as they are so much cheaper in price, but in 
the long run. Homers will be- found the cheapest by far. 
Their squabs are usually larger >nd bring higher prices, 
and I haVe raised them to weigh 14 ounces each, while 
common ones seldom weigh over 10 ounces each. By 
crossing the Homers wuth the common variety a large 
squab is also often produced. Take a Homer cock, and 
a large common hen ( light color preferred ) for this 
purpose. Never allow small birds room in your lofts or 
birds which have dark S(iuabs, and there will be fewer 
second class squabs when shipping to market. 



15 

Some fanciers claim a good protit by raising pure 
white pigeons exclusivel3\ They are sold to Taxider- 
mists in large cities, who stuff them and in turn sell 
them for funeral purposes. Common birds can be used 
for this, and the smaller the variety the better. 

The Duchesse is a fair breeder, producing squabs 
nice in size, color, etc. but in ni}^ estimation are not so 
active as Homers. They are I think more delicate and 
more subject to disease than other varieties, but of 
course all fanciers have different views on this subject. 
If they are to be tried as breeders, l)uy the very best var- 
iety, the largest birds, as there arc quite a number of 
different kinds of Duchesse, and some almost. as w^orth- 
less as common pigeons. 

Runts pratically belong to the fancy variety and 
are the largest birds known. Their squabs are exceed- 
ino;ly larire too, but I would not advise their use in this 
industry on account of their first cost, unless one could 
be fortunate enough to buy a lot cheap of fanciers, ones 
which are little off in style, color, etc. in the fancy, 
they of course will come of good advantage, and by 
saving a squab or two occasionally will in time make a 
a loft of fine large stock. Chances of purchasing these 
birds cheap however are rare. Hunts however if pure 
blood ai'c poor breeders as a rule and a better bird will 
be found in one of its crosses. For instance, the Hunt 
Homer cross is conceded to be the best. 



PURCHASING. 



IN purchasing stock, always go to parties making a 
special Imsiness of breeding pigeons alone, their 

addresses can be found in all Fanciers' papers in 
which there are numerous advertisements. Many have 
been unsuccessful in the S(iuab business, become dis- 
couraged and disgusted simply because their first lot of 
birds were not as represented. Some dealers will try 
and pan off on the inexperienced, old worn out bird:* 
only suitable for shooting matches, but the purchaser 
will soon learn the art m procuring good birds after in 
business a short time. The main secret in buying 
stock is to be sure and get large young liird in age from 
1 to 2 years, of parties having good reputations. 

Never keep too many old birds in stock, in fact 
none is better. Sell them off if possible, as free board- 
ers are of no use. What I mean by old birds are the 
ones which have been worked hard, have lost their 
ambition and vigor and seldom have squabs. Some as 
far as their age is concerned are excellent breeders yet 
at the age ot 7 or S years, in fact I once saw a Homer 
cock whose owner claimed was 1<> years old, lively as a 
two vear old and a good breeder. 



An excellent plan to be sure of having young birds 
is to have an extra pen for young ones alone . and when 
you notice a fine large pair of squabs in Summer, when 
prices are low, let them fly in this loft. At 6 months 
of age they will usually mate up, and if you are sure 
they are mated to stay, put them to work in breeding 
house. Sometimes they undertake this step when but 
4 months old, but Homers to do their best and to be 
strong and healthy in after years should not be allowed 
to mate until the age above mentioned. Many have 
adopted this plan, and by the time Summer, is over 
their stock is largely increased with good young birds 
for Winter breeding and at little extra expense. 




MATING. 



ALWAYS see that the birds are well mated, and if 
purchased of good reliable fanciers, they will be 
mated when sent you. Never allow an odd cock 
the privilege of flying loose amongst the others as he 
will invaribly do more harm by lighting with them and 
also by killing more young squabs than many diseases 
will. It is a good plan to have a special box for the 
purpose of mating, with a partition in the centre; place 
the cock in one side, the hen in the other and after a 
few days draw out the partition etc. To distinguish 
the sex is often a hard task for many with experience, 
but by closely watching the birds one will readily ob- 
serve that the cock does considerably more cooing and 
has generally more life about him than the hen, and in 
flirting with the hen often turns around several times 
a hen seldom turns more than half way around. The 
hen is usually smaller than the cock and has somewhat 
a different shaped head. To tell the sex without see- 
ing their actions in the loft is however not an easy task, 
and oftimes one purchases a bird supposed to be a hen 
and when at home flnds it to be a cock. Mistakes are 
often made in this way. The only true way to dis- 



19 

tinguished the sex (and one which stands to reason) is 
to catch the bird and liold it in one hand, and with the 
index finger of tlie other hand pass it gently between 
the vent bones. You will soon notice in so doing that 
the bones of the hen are much farther apart than those 
of the cock and after a little pratice one can soon learn 
to tell the sex accurately and make very few mistakes 
if any at all . This I have found the best and only 
common sense way of distinguishing the sex, the vent 
bones of the hen gradually becoming farther apart by 
laying eggs. Oftimes the sex of squabs can be told in 
this way also. 

When one bird is constantly chasing another all 
around the building and outside as well, the last one is 
the cock and the former his mate and that they are 
ready to build a nest will be proven in a short time 
afterwards. The cock will continue to drive the hen 
in this way for several days until their nest is 
finished and eggs are laid. 



^^ 



r 




^. 



FOOD AND FEEDING. 



nANY fanciers prefer feeding their birds by the 
hand i. e. throwing out their feed upon the 
ground or loft floor, in such quantities that 
will be eaten up at one meal. I differ with them in 
this respect for in this way they eat too hurriedly 
and swallow more or less dirt with their food. The 
most customary at the present time and the best 
possible way of feeding is with hoppers or trays. 
Make them 10 or 12 feet in length, about 6 inches 
wide, and a good plan is to have a top made. On 
the sides have strips so nailed that the birds cannot 
get into the trough and yet can get their heads 
through and eat. In this way the troughs or hoppers 
are always clean. Give at each meal a little more feed 
than will be eaten up clean, the extra amount given 
will be eaten up by those birds on the nest at the time 
of feeding, as some birds do not leave their nests and 
otherwise would go hungry until their next meal. 
Birds that are breeding should be fed but twice a day, 
early in the morning and about 4 o'clock in the after- 
noon. They will then have ample time to feed their 
young before dark. As far as can be done allow only 



21 

one person to do the feeding and the birds will soon 
become accustomed to their entering the loft and grow 
quite tame, when if different ones feed them they will 
be frightened at each feeding, wild birds will not breed 
as fi-eely as tame ones and less accidents will happen, 
such as broken legs, chilled young etc. 

When birds have their freedom they fly around 
from place to place and gather for their living what 
suits their tastes. In the country they frequent newly 
harvested grain-fields, and eat all manner of new 
grains, which would cause sickness if they were given 
it when housed up. This no doubt is from the fact 
that wiien at liberty they have better exercise. Birds 
in confinement have no choice but are compelled to 
thrive upon the food put before them. Good food, 
good stock; poor food, failure. The best food is the 
cheapest by far. All grains fed should be well dried, 
as much loss and disease has been endangered from the 
use of green grain. The latter produces diarrhoea and 
the birds emaciate until death relieves them. 

Birds require a variety of food same as persons, 
and ones fed upon the same kind of food for any length 
of time will not thrive and soon become lazy and un- 
profitable for the squab-raiser. A large variety of food 
IS not at all necessary but to change it often is essen- 
tial to their health. 

Red wheat (never use white) is, taking it the 
whole year around, about the best food, although the 
author often gains excellent results from the use of 
good screenings. With this besides the wheat it con- 
tains, the birds get tares, different other seeds etc., but 



one objection to the use of screenings and one which 
causes the deatli of many birds is the rye which it con- 
tains. Rye is as poison to pigeons and in fact poultry 
also. If they should eat the smallest quantity diarrhoea 
will set in, and if the cause of birds being scoured is 
not known and the food changed at once the}' die in a 
comparatively short time. I once lost nearly a whole 
flock of birds in this way before discovering the real 
cause, but soon as I changed their food giving wheat in- 
stead, the remainder of my flock entirely recovered. 
After I examined the screenings I had been feeding I 
found some rye, but not in such very large quantities 
either, so this is proof that it requires but a small 
amount to cause the death of birds even if healthy. 

Corn is the next best article of food. It should be 
given to them cracked and very dry. Never feed 
whole corn to birds that are breeding as it is as hard 
bullets in the tender crops of the little squeakers. 
Cracked corn is preferred and should be purchased in 
only small lots and often, for it is a great absorbent of 
moisture and soon becomes mouldy and unfit for use as 
food. Using old stale cracked corn is one of the 
causes of sour crop in birds. It should not be cracked 
too fine and should never be fed in connection with 
wheat or peas. If a change in food is thought necess- 
ary always wait until the morning meal then their crops 
are entirely empty and the change will be less liable to 
cause the birds illness. It is much better to feed 
screenings or wheat one meal, buckwheat, millers wheat 
one meal, screenings or cracked corn the next etc., than 
to give a mixture all at once. Bear in mind feed only 



23 



the red wheat and this should be of the very best qual- 
ity. Scorched wheat which is so often purchased of 
dealers who claim it grand food for poultry, and which 
IS too often used by the fanciers on account of its cheap- 
ness is not tit for food, for its nutriment value is not 
worth speaking of. This wheat sometimes, but very 
seldom, comes from grain elevator fires, and the best is 
taken out and dried, after which it is sold for poultry. 
The majority I find after investigation is nothing more 
nor less than wheat w^hich has been stored away for a 
considerable length of time, and has become mouldy. 
This then is put through a process, by which the grains 
are somewhat charred, evidently to lessen the smell 
of the mould. It is then claimed to come from eleva- 
tor fires. If all the burnt wheat had come from these 
fires not an elevator would be standing The secret of 
this process w^a> given the author by an intimate friend, 
a wealthy miller. One of the most nutritious foods for 
pigeons is oats. It contains a great percentage of 
starch and they are valuable on account of the great 
amount of mineral material they contain. The proteine 
and fats are however in smaller quantities, but on the 
whole oats will be found, a very valuable food. The 
only objection to its use is that of the extremely sharp 
hulls. The only safe way to feed oats is the hulled 
i. e. with the outer shell removed. Rolled oats answers 
the same purpose, but for the squab raising business 
where the expense must be kept down as far as possible, 
it will be found too dear to feed regularly, but will be a 
relish very highly appreciated. 



24 

Millet especially the German millet is another val- 
uable article of food but on account of its stimulating 
qualities, a little goes a great way. Feed it occassional- 
ly mixed with wheat as a relish. Caraway and canary 
seeds can also be given in the same way. Sunflower 
seed if hulled makes an article of food very valuable 
during the moulting season, and in the dead of Win- 
ter. It resembles Hemp seed.which is also highly con- 
centrated, heatening and fat forming. It has been de- 
cided that the black seed is far superior to the Russian, 
These seeds put an elegant gloss to the plumage, and 
will be found very beneficial in assuming the proper 
condition of the feathers of birds for the shows. A 
fine lustre will be established with only a few fed. 
A new variety of corn has recently been grown here 
which will grow into favor with breeders. It has a 
small kernel the size of a small pea. It is called the 
Kafiir Corn, has all the qualities of the Indian Corn 
and will answer the same purpose. It can be swallow- 
ed very easily by the smallest of birds, and may be fed 
on the same principle as the large corn. 

The food should be varied according to the seasons 
for instance in Winter when the nights are cold, and 
the birds quiet, a required amount of heat must be 
supplied. It is then the time to feed corn. Always 
feed it at night, and cut the amount down to mere noth- 
ing during the Summer months. Many fanciers resort 
to nothing but corn for their birds on account of its 
cheapness and there are many birds raised upon noth- 
ing but corn, but these aie not hardy. 



25 

An occasional cupful of buckwheat and henipseed 
mixed is a luxury for the pigeons, but the latter should 
be fed very sparingly as it is entirely too rich and fat- 
tening for healthy birds, but is an excellent article to 
always have on hand for sick or run down birds, and 
very nourishing food for those suffering from the disease 
known as Going Light. 

Canadian peas are relished by the birds and are 
also very nourishingbut for this industry, in which ex- 
penses must be kept down as much as possible. Peas 
will be dear as the price is very high. Scraps from 
the table, such as pieces of bread, cakes, etc , will 
be eaten with relish. Sometimes stale bread can be 
purchased at the bakeries at a very small figure, but 
it must not be at all mouldy. Soak it first in warm 
Avater before feeding and then watch how greedily they 
devour it. 

Green food is not as necessary for pigeons as for 
poultry, but an occasional bunch of salad is good and 
also chick weed if the latter can be found. Ground 
oyster shells must be before them at all times, as it 
aids in the formation of shells. Lime they must have 
in some form, and besides oyster shells they may be 
given plaster from old buildings or from old mortar 
beds. 



26 



WATER. 

Pigeons require a greater amount of water than 
poultry, and good fresh water in suitable fountains 
should always be kept before them. Excellent recep- 
tacles for this purpose can be made from a molasses 
barrel by sawing the top and bottom off above the 
second hoop. Two nice tubs four or six inches deep 
will then have been made, which should be filled full 
with water. Scrub these tubs outevery morning before 
giving fresh water, especially in Summer and when the 
temperature rises from 85 to 100 degrees the water 
must be changed often and llie tubs scalded out oc- 
casionally. 

Always allow your birds to bathe freely when 
they wish, in Winter as well as in Summer, they in this 
way rid themselves of much dirt and sometimes lice. 
After all have finished their bath throw away the water 
and give them a fresh supply. Never allow the birds 
to drink of the water after bathing in it. 

SALT. 

Salt is as essential to pigeons as bread is to man- 
kind. Care must be taken however in giving it them 
for birds not accustomed to it will often eat entirely too 
much at one time and die from the effects. Give only 
a small quantity at first to such birds, and gradually in- 
crease the amount day after day until tliey become used 



27 

to it when it can then be given them in hoppers and 
should be before them at all times. I always use the 
coarse or ground salt (^ same as used for cattle) in pre- 
ference to rock salt and never experienced bad results 
as birds after becoming accustomed to it will never 
eat too much. 

Birds are exceedingly fond of codfish and a small 
piece tacked up against the side of their lofts will be 
highly appreciated by them. I have heard of parties 
putting this fish in boxes outside their barns and 
strange birds would come in large numbers and make 
their abode there. 

Salt Cat is recommended by some fanciers to pro- 
mote the best health in pigeons, and given to breeders 
will be found a good tonic and preventative of disease 
to a certain extent. It is made by taking coarse sand 
two pecks, slacked lime one peck, salt one pint, ground 
oyster shells one-half peck, crushed cumin and caraway 
seeds each one-half pound, mix well. Then take Sul- 
phate of Iron one-fourth pound. Sulphuric Acid one-half 
ounce and dissolve in two quarts of water. It will take 
about two quarts of water to mix the above ingredients 
and to each quart add several tablespoonfuls of this 
mixture. Lay away to dry when it can be readily 
broken up in fine pieces and given the birds in a corner 
of the feed hopper. 



CARE OF BREEDERS. 



YOUK best birds re<(uire your best attention. See 
that they are well mated and if one should die, at 
once replace it with one of the same sex. Many 
make great mistakes by crow<lirig their birds in the 
lofts. Birds to do their best must have plenty of room, 
and fanciers putting too many in one com})artment find 
in the end they do so to their own sorrow. Twenty- 
five pair in each pen is sufficient if partitions are arrang- 
-ed so that only eight or ten pairs are kept together the 
results will be better. 

Diseases such as Canker, Going Light, etc. are sure 
to arise in overcrowded lofts. Heating the breeding 
house in Winter is not at all necessary as good healthy 
l)irds arc not affected by the cold weather. Ones 
which are accustomed to warm compartments invaria- 
bly catch cold more readily when flying out in the cold 
run where a sudden change is met, than those without 
lieat. The suu's rays, if the building is in the proper 
location furnishes all the heat necessary. The lofts 
should be well ventilated in Winter same as Summer 
but alwavs avoid drau<»:hls in cold weather. 



29 

During the moulting period extra pains must be 
taken to keep the birds in a healthy condition foi- at 
this time they are more sensitive to diseases than at 
other times. Never work them too hard at this period 
and if given a rest by seperating the sexes for a month 
or so then returning them to their lofts they will be 
more vigorous and breed surprisingly afterwards. A 
small supply of hemp seed is good at this time given in 
connection with wheat, etc. and green food is very bene- 
ficial also. Very often young birds when moulting 
droop, waste away and die. This is called Distemper 
and if no diarrhoea exists, can often be cured by pull- 
ing out with one sharp jerk all the tail feathers. Some 
might think this cruel, but I think they are not so sen- 
sitive in this respect at this period. This is practiced 
among all fanciers. 

Fanciers who make it a business to breed nothing 
but the fancy varieties of pigeons will find it to their 
advantage to seperate the cocks from the hens during 
the Winter months. This will give the hens a rest and 
their breeding qualities better for the next seuson. 
Put the cocks in pens by themselves, and tlie hens like- 
wise in one by themselves, but have solid partitions so 
they cannot see each other all the time for if otherwise 
they would most likely keep up their relations and 
cause both cock and hen to worry and flutter all the 
time trying to get together. If new pairs are to be 
used in breeding the next season, it will become a task 
for the owner for they will invariably mate up again 
with the old mates. 



30 
MARKING EGGS. 

The hen will lay but two eggs, generally a day or 
two apart. 1 find it a great advantage to keep a close 
watch on all the boxes and mark the date on the front 
of each box when the eggs were laid. By so doing one 
can almost tell to a day when they will hatch, and an- 
other advantage, can readily tell if they will hatch or 
not. After the birds have been setting upon the eggs, 
say for three or four days take the eggs gently out of 
the nest and hold them up towards the sunlight or win- 
dow and as the shells are very thin the eggs are almost 
transparent, and infertile eggs you will observe on one 
side a number of veins all coming together at one point 
in the centre, the whole resembling in appearance, a 
spider. If after five or six days these veins do not 
make their appearance the eggs will not hatch and 
might as well be thrown out for what use would there 
be in having birds setting upon them their full time if 
one knows they will amount to nothing. Throw them 
away and in a week or so they will have laid others 
If only one egg is hatchable it may be taken out and 
put in another similar nest where only one will hatch 
and where the eggs were laid about the same time. 
One will readily see that this plan is saving and adds a 
little more profit, but never make birds hatch more 
than nature requires them; two eggs. If three or four 
^ggs are hatched by the same birds, only two squabs 
will amount to anything probably as is often the case 
none are first class, but puny and un^alable. 



31 

The question often arises: Why are there more 
cock pigeons than hens? The author thinks that as 
the cock bird is most always hatched first, the parent 
birds show partiality towards him in the wa}' of atten- 
tion and feed him more, and in this way neglect the 
hen. Oftimes the hen squab from this neglect becomes 
poorly nourished and too often dies. Another reason 
might be that the hen has not so strong a constitution 
as the cock, and more susceptible to malignant diseases, 
and one peculiar to their sex. 

INCUBATION. 

. The cock takes up nearly as much time in setting 
upon the eggs as the hen does, both taking part. The 
cock is a relief for the hen and sets from about ten 
o'clock in the morning till four o'clock in the afternoon* 
sometimes in between times also. It usually takes 
eighteen days for eggs to hatch and as one is laid a day 
or so before the other, one will hatch before the other, 
the first hatched being the cock. 

ATTENTION TO SQUABS. 

Much can be done in the way of attending squabs 
which many neglect doing and a few points might be 
of interest to those who have not had much experience. 
Squabs when young receive proper attention from the 
parent birds but the fancier often increases his profit 
to some extent by using his birds to their best advan- 
tage i. e. making them do all that nature requires of 



3-2 

them. Eiiclj pair of birJs are capable ot rearing but 
one pair oi s<juabs at a time, but as often only one egg 
hatches in a certain nest look through your loft and 
usually you will find another nest with but one hatched 
also. If the squabs are of about the same age, one of 
them can be put in with the other and the one pair of 
birds will have to rear them both. This can be done 
until the squabs are quite large and tiie old birds will 
not know the difference thinking both their own. 
Again if both eggs do hatch and one squab grows and 
thrives better than the other (which is too often the 
case as parent birds show partiality towards the male 
squab and feed it more) take the poorly nourished one 
away and do as above mentioned, and nine times out of 
ten it will grow surprising!}'. 

LICE. 

Lice have caused the death of many valuable birds 
and great numbers of squabs are annually being tor- 
mented to death by these pests. Whitewashing and the 
use of kerosene oil are of little or no value to prevent 
lice from forming. The best way of prevention is to 
allow the birds nothing but tobacco stems or ribs with 
which to build their nest always having a good supply 
of strong fresh ones before them and lice will be scarce. 
If they should appear in spite of every precaution, as 
they sometimes do especially when the stems have lost 
their strength sprinkle a little crude carbolic acid 
around in the nests. This sometimes rids them and is 
an excelh^nt disinfectant if nothinor else. The main 



3.5 

way to prevent lice from forming is to keep the breed- 
ing houses and nest as clear, as possible. Nests when 
occupied by squabs soon become very offensive and un- 
healthy from accumulation of the soft excrement, and 
is sure to breed lice. By removing the nests every 
week or so, and replacing with fresh stems makes a bet- 
ter appearance and is certainly much healthier for the 
squabs, allowing them to grow and thrive well. Squab 
raisers must pay strict attention in every way to keep 
their breeding houses in a good sanitary condition if 
they wish to become successful. Occasionlly throwing 
a handful of slacked lime in each nestis another ex- 
cellent way ot pervention but never put it upon the 
floor as 1 once heard of a fancier doing, he had it to the 
depth of an inch or so all around the floor of his loft 
and in consequence lost all his flock of costly birds from 
strangulation by du-st whicli the birds raised when fly- 
ing about. Clean the houses well at least once a week 
especially in Summer and by following the above pre- 
cautions lice will be of no consideration whatever. 




DRESSING SQUABS. 



SQUABS fit for market purposes should not be un- 
der four weeks old and it often i)ays the raiser 
better if he will allow them to get a week older 
for they will fill out considerably more in that much ex- 
tra time. Squabs are generally killed too soon, that is 
before they have attained their full growth. Never kill 
them when their hind part is yet soft as many do but 
wait until it hardens even if they fly out of the nest a 
week or so, then the pin feathers will have attained a 
good length and renders it less tedious to pick; and the 
breast of the squab is filled out properly. 

Go through your breeding houses the afternoon 
of the day previous to the day you intend shipping and 
collect the squabs you think suitable and place them in 
boxes until the following morning then their crops 
will be entirely empty and you thereby save much la- 
bor and time in extracting the grain, although this can 
be done after a little practice in a very short time. 
Never ship squabs to market with full crops for by the 
time they reach there the food which they contain will 
cause them to look dark and poorer prices will be 
realized. 



85 

When ready to kill, ufter having baskets for feath- 
ers, buckets, etc. handy by your side, take a squab in 
the left hand and hold it up by the wings and feet so as 
to allow all the blood to enter the head, then with a 
very sharp bladed knife make a deep incision into the 
jugular veins, never sticking them in the upper part of 
the mouth as some do, as they do not bleed so well. 
Commence picking as soon as the blood is done flowing 
whether the bird is dead or not, as the feathers are 
more easily pulled than after the squab has gotten cold. 
Some might think this is cruel but I think they are in- 
sensible of pain after sticking and bleeding. Pull the 
tail and wing feathers out first and then the others being 
very careful not to tear the skin on the breasts and near 
the head. This the best pickers will do at times, but 
after a little practice anyone will become accustomed 
to picking and will tear but few and do the feathering 
very quickly, the author having picked as high as seven 
pairs in an hour but would not like to undertake to 
work a whole day at that rate. Five pairs an hour is 
good enough time at picking. Have a bucketful of cold 
water (in which there has been thrown a good handful 
of fine salt) nearby and immediately after picking throw 
the squabs into the water. It brings out the animal 
heat and the salt improves the color of the skin, remov- 
ing the greater part of darkness often seen in squabs 
that have been improperly stuck and that did not bleed 
freely. Squabs naturally dark are greatly improved 
also in this way. Wash the dirt off their feet, the 
blood out of their mouths, fold back their wings, tie up 



:;6 



ill pairs birds of the same size and fatness and hang up 
till shipping time. 

SHIPPING. 

Another important part in this business is to find 
the best purchasers for your stock. Many ship their 
whole supply to game dealers in New York City and 
other large cities who pay them very fair prices, but 
what is better if residing near a city is to have your 
own private customers, who often if they are sure you 
can supplj^ them regularly the whole year around will 
pay high prices. Get the best parties, always, in pri- 
vate families as well as in hotels and resturants and de- 
liver them yourself. If you are not in close proximity 
with a large city and are compelled to ship them away 
always get a good game dealer to take your squabs as 
they always pay better prices than commission men* 
The reason for this is that the former retail their goods 
to the hotels, etc. while the latter only wholesales. 

When ready to ship pack the squabs in layers in a 
box of the proper size for the quantity of birds you wish 
to ship and pack with their breast down, keeping the 
best birds for the top of the box. In Summer always 
])ut ice in the box or boxes. Crack it in small pieces 
about the size of a walnut and put in the bottom of the 
box several inches of it, then pack your squabs, and 
after all are in, put several inches of the ice on top of 
all. Fill in the remainder of the box with nice white 
l)aper. In Winter pack the same only the ice is not 
necessary. In shipping never send by freight, always 
Uy express as this is tlie quickest way of getting your 



goods to their destination and the companies are respon- 
sible for all damages inflicted. 

FEATHERS A PROFIT. 

Everything must be taken into consideration in 
this industry even down to selling featliers and manure. 
Each will add something to the other proHts. Where 
large numbers of squabs are killed weekly the feathers 
will accumulate in great quantities. Save all excepting 
the wing and tail feathers and after baking in an oven 
several times can then be sold. Many claim them al- 
most equal to goose feathers. 

MANURE A PROFIT. 

Have barrels near the building expressly for the 
manure and by cleaning the floor each week also throw- 
ing in all stems and excrement from the unoccupied 
nests, barrels will be collected. Farmers during corn 
phmting time will be only too glad to buy it and will 
pay excellent prices for they claim it to be the best of 
fertilizers. 

70 PER CENT PROFIT. 

The squab raising industry without doubt pays a 
larger percentage of profit on the capital invested than 
many kinds of business at the present time, but much 
depending upon the care and management of course. 
Take for instance 500 pairs of birds i. e. good breeding 
ones. The average cost of feeding one pair each week 
is about 1 1-2 cents. Good breeders will have at least 



38 

8 pairs of squabs per year and some average more. 
Taking il at the low average of 8 pairs per year, 500 
pairs of birds would have 4000 pair of squabs. Sup- 
posing 500 pairs of these would die which most always 
happens to a certain extent and at the close of the year 
3500 pairs of squabs will have been sold. At an aver- 
age price of 35 cents per pair for squabs the whole 
year around the receipts would amount to $12'25.00 and 
subtracting the cost of feeding your birds which would 
be about $890.00 (at the above rate per week) your 
profit would amount to $835.00 or about 70 percent 
figuring in the profit on manure, etc. What better em- 
ployment can anyone find where the profit is so large, 
but no one can expect to succeed in this business (the 
same as in any other) unless he i)uts his mind down to 
it and pays all attention possible. Every one can learn 
many different things from experience, but as the fore- 
going pages are written from years of pratical experi- 
ence, by so following, success is found to reign supreme. 
The following pages on the Diseases of the Pigeon Avill 
be found valuable to every breeder, and the prescriptions 
given therein for the various ailments are altogether 
harmless and have been used by the author with the 
very best results. Above all do not place too much 
confidence in advertised nostrums, as many of the pro- 
prietors have never had any experience whatever in 
the pigeon business. 



DISEASES. 



IT is hardly necessary for the aullior to enter into de- 
tail with every disease to which the pigeon family 
may fail heir, but I will treat only upon the most 
common and dangerous diseases with which the squab 
raiser must contend. A few hints as to the care and 
feeding of sick birds might also be beneficial. Any- 
one can readily notice when a bird is not well, they are 
apparently lazy, droopy, generally off their feed, and in 
other words all out of sorts, but to know the true na- 
ture of the disease and to have the proper remedies at 
hand is one reason I treat on the diseases for it takes 
an important part in this business. When birds are ill 
the selection of proper food is of main importance, 
hemp, canary seed or wheat in the right proportions 
should be placed before it, to tempt it to eat although 
in most diseases owing to a fever they prefer drink. 
In such a. case use oat meal water i. e. water in which 
several handfuls of the meal has been soaked. Keep 
those sick in a seperate pen or box and give them all 
attention possible. 

Diseases as a general rule originate in some negli- 
gence on the part of the fancier feeding poor grain, im- 
pure water or want of cleanliness. 



41 



GOING LIGHT. 

The most troublesome and dangerous disease to 
which breeding birds are subject is Going Light or in 
other terms consumption. It is a tubercular disease 
and very contagious, the disease germ-s being taken in 
food or water. It is often caused by a sudden chill, 
taking cold or from some irritating food or water. The 
disease generally commences with diarrhoea or infla- 
mation of the bowels which sooner or later reaches the 
lungs. The birds la}^ around with ruffled feathers and 
have a very miserable appearance. The discharges are 
very slimy and frequent, and if proper attention is not 
paid the bird weakens and dies, having wasted to a 
mere skeleton. Unless your bird is of special value 
kill it at once for this disease is very hard to cure and 
being exceedingly contagious whole flocks sometimes 
die. The old saying an ounce of prevention is worth 
a pound of cure, I have found good policy and when 
this disease is once noticed, use the following precautions 
to prevent others from getting it. See that there is no 
cold draught in the house, although well ventilated as 
it often originates in a cold. Next give only good food 
and fresh water, whatever food having a tendency to 
cause looseness of bowels to be discontinued at once. 
Give feeding hoppers and water tubs a good scalding 
out, and add a tablespoonful ortwo of the tonic made 
as follows to each tub of water, never using this pre- 
scription in anything but wooden receptacles. In mak- 
ing this tonic which is very useful in treating many 
other diseases also, take Copperas i ounce, Sulpiiate of 



42 



Soda 4 ounces, Gentian Root i ounce, Phosphate of 
Soda 2 ounces and pure Beech wood Creosote 1 dram. 
First take the Creosote and rub well into 20 grains of 
Calcined 3Iagnesia (otherwise it would not mix in 
water) add it to two quarts of warm water, and follow 
with the other ingredients. This I find the best tonic 
and is an excellent thing to prevent disease, it having 
the best antiseptic properties known for pigeons. If 
this cannot at once be made up, a teaspoonful of Tr. 
Chloride of Iron may be used but is not so good. This 
is the best preventative of Going Light and most all 
other diseases and is harmless. 

CANKER IN THROAT. 

This is by no means an uncommon disease es- 
pecially among squabs at an age of a few weeks , It 
greatly resembles diphtheria and some authors claim it 
to be the same. It is caused by contagion and usu- 
ally comes in Winter when the thermometer is low and 
the air moist. The symptoms are fever, swelling of 
throat after which appears ulcers on either side, form- 
ing a yellow cheesy matter very offensive. This dis- 
ease is hard to cure among squabs especially, and too 
often cannot be cured, but the whole Hock must be doc- 
tored and prevention used to keep the others from 
catching it. I put a small piece of common alum about 
i the size of a hickory nut, in the drinking water for 
several weeks and the disease will not spread in fact I 
was never bothered with it after once using. Do not 
give too long, and every other week give the tonic. 



43 

My profits in the Winter have been largely increased 
by the above method, when others around me lost near- 
ly all their birds. When old birds are afflicted, they 
can often be cured by removing the cheesy matter and 
applying a small quantity of burnt alum to the throat. 
Never use turpentine as some do, for it has a tendency 
to elevate the temperature of the bird which has at 
that time a high fever, as it is. After applying the 
burnt alum, which is a powerful astringent and eats 
away the false membrane, some mild oil should be used 
to encourage healing. A few drops of sweet oil or Cod 
Liver Oil is good for this ]uirpose. Excellent results 
have been obtained by painting the throat with a mild 
solution of Permanganate of Potassium (10 grains to 
an ounce of water being used. ) As this disease is 
claimed by some to be diphtheria, great precautions 
must be used in treating not to inhale the breath for it 
has been contracted to persons.. I once read in a val- 
uable medical book, where a family were all taken with 
diphtheria, there being no other cases in the neighbor- 
hood, it also being a healthy locality. They had recent- 
ly purchased a lot of turkeys from a far off state. 
These turkeys seemed ill and died off occasionally. The 
physician in charge of the family made an examination 
of the turkeys and tound mau}^ liad canker which he 
termed was diphtheria, and was the cause of the family's 
affliction. To go farther, they afterwards learned that 
where the turkeys were bought diphtheria was a raging 
epidemic. Therefore use all precautions when treat- 
ing, and above all remove the birds afflicted to other 
quarters. 



44 



SOUR CROP. 

Sour crop is nothing inoic nor less than indigestion 
very often produced by feeding wheat and ci-aclved corn 
together. If one grain is fed at one meal sour crop 
will not prevail. It is something similar to the disease 
crop bound, where the crop becomes overloaded with 
food hard to digest and eaten hurriedly, or something 
of an indigestible nature. The crop becomes purple 
m color and is very hard, soon endangering the bird's 
life if assistance comes not. Both can be readily cured 
by administering a few drops of Castor Oil, and not al- 
lowing any food for a day, after removing some of the 
food from the overdistended crop. 

INFLUENZA OR CATARRH. 

Birds suffer as much from this disease as human 
beings do. It is caused by a peculiar miasma in the 
atmosphere and is often epidemic afflicting many birds 
in a whole community at one time. The symptoms are 
fever, eyes swollen and watery, and a sticky gummy dis- 
charge from the throat and head, forming on their bills. 
It is not dangerous to the old birds only causing weak- 
ness, but when squabs contract it, often ends fatally. 
Alum in the water is the best treatment and prevention. 

ENTERITIS. 

This is an inflammation of tbe bowels caused by .tke 
bir4 having eaten some powerful irritant or caught se- 
vere cold. The bird will stand all huddled up in a b,eap. 



45 



feathers standing uiU and tail down. Diarriioea of a 
severe form is always present, the excrement being com- 
posed of nothing but mucous and blood. Give tonic in 
water to which has also been added a small quantity of 
laudanum. Worms are often the cause of this disease. 

CHOLERA. 

This disease is a kind of malarial affliction caused 
by too many birds being kept in one loft, and at the 
same time negligence on the part of the owner in keep- 
ing the house and surroundings in a good sanitary con- 
dition. This disease is never seen in a good healthy 
breeding house. The symptoms are violent diarrhoea 
with rather greenish discharges, containing some mucous 
It usually comes in hot weather, so by carefully watch- 
ing the water, giving fresh at times, and good feed 
(never corn in Summer), this can be prevented. Using 
the tonic in the water will effect a cure. 

WORMS. 

Pigeon raisers are often troubled with birds, that 
although they eat healthy, do not thrive, and are always 
moping around, and seem lazy. Oftimes their intestine? 
are packed full of worms. Only one kind afflicts pig- 
eons, and they are from 1-1 to an inch oi- two in length. 
The presence of these parasites often set up a violent 
enteritis as seen by the slimy discharge voided. Exam- 
ining the excrement is the only sure w^ay of detecting- 
worms and if found give the bird or birds afflicted 1-2 
grain of Santonin every morning for three <lays fol- 
lowing with a dose of Castor Oil the evening of the 



46 



third day, when they will generally be relieved and 
cured if taken in time. 

VOMITING. 

Birds are sometimes seen to vomit up a certain 
amount of their food. This is caused by indigestion 
and very often by feeding whole corn the large grain 
variety. It is generally caused by not having enough 
grit or gravel in the loft. This must be supplied at all 
times, and diseases which they often get will be some- 
what lessened. 

LUMP IN THROAT. 

This is of frequent occurrence especially in squabs 
from two to four weeks of age. It is by no means a 
common malady, and is nothing more nor less than the 
lodgment of coarse grain in the throat. After a day 
or so it seems to change in appearance and adheres to 
the membrane of the throat causing an inflammation giv- 
ing many fanciers and squab raisers an idea it is a 
growth of some nature. This however is false and is 
only grain lodged in swallowing. The best way to pre- 
vent this disease or in other words a condition as it is 
not a disease, is to feed only small grains such as wheat 
etc. If corn is used have it cracked or else use the 
small grained corn raised especially for birds. This 
lump is hard to cure and a bird once afflicted can only 
get relief by a surgical operation. Cut the skin, remove 
the lump and stitch up again. This can sometimes 
successfully be done after a little experience. This 
condition is frequently mistaken for canker by ama- 



47 



teurs, but as there is some resemblence, it will be found 
that canker mostly affects the sides of the throat, where 
the lump IS usually farther down the throat. 

DISTEMPER. 

This disease usually afHicts squabs and young birds, 
and may be divided into three distinct classes. First, 
when squabs attain the age of about a week, the nat- 
ural milky food is checked and they are fed upon 
coarser food which is harder to become digested. This 
often causes a crop disorder, and the little squeakers 
die for lack of nourishment. At al>out three weeks the 
food still becomes coarser, and in fact is fed the young 
almost immediately after eaten by the parents. This 
hard food often remains in the crop undigested, and be- 
comes fowl and poisoning by the fermentation going 
on. The breath of the squab becomes foul, and the 
old birds neglect them, and the young gradually perish. 
A small dose of Castor Oil often cures this condition. 
Second, when about three weeks of age the old birds 
often build new nests, and lay other eggs, and com- 
mence setting before their other squabs are able to feed 
themselves. They of course do not pay the attention 
to them that they did before, and immediately after eat- 
ing the food they feed it to the young before it has 
had proper time to become predigested as it were or 
softened. This likewise remains in the crops undigest- 
ed and finally causes anatomy of that organ. In a few 
days if a remedy is not given to remove the undigested 
food the squab dies. Diarrhoea is often caused by this 
condition and likewise causes the birds death. A dose 



48 



of Castor Oil should be given, enough to act as a gentle 
physic. The old birds will then commence to feed them 
again, and it is always best to give the oil several times 
thereafter until the squab becomes able to digest the 
food and to prevent a reoccurrence of the malady. 
Third, squabs at the age of six weeks, about the 
time they begin to fly out of the nests and forage for 
themselves, are afflicted with another stage of distem- 
per. They have diarrhoea, are mopish, and emaciate 
very rapidly, finally dying without any apparent cause. 
In these cases it will be found beneficial to pull out all 
the tail feathers with one sudden pull, and give a dose 
of Phosphate of Soda to cleanse out the bowels ot all 
mucous etc. Give only plain soft food for a few days, 
and at the same time a dose of Cod Liver Oil to help 
strengthen. Birds when afflicted about the time they 
shed their nest feathers can be treated the same way. 




Rough outline for building and run suitable fob 
Squab Raising. 



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Price 50 Cts. By Mail. 

PUBLISHED BY 

C. E. TWOMBLY, BOSTON, MASS. 




ILLUSTRATED. 

Now Ready for Delivery and Invaluable to Every Fancier, 

This book contains the very latest Standard of Perfection of 
every vaiiety of Pigeons, giving an accurate and concise descrip- 
tion of all breeds for which 
no standard has been form- 
ed. Nearly every variety 
is illustrated with an up- 
to-date drawing of the 
ideal specimen. No fancier 
can do without it. 

No book has ever been 
published at a price within 
the reach of the humblest 
fancier, containing all the 
OFFICIAL STANDARDS 




and 



in the plainest 



possible manner, the points required to make up the perfect 
specimen of every variety of the pigeon family. Any fancier 
with this book at hand can tell wherein his birds lack the re- 
quirements of the ideal. 

Price 50 cents, Post Paid 



C. E. Twombly, 



Publisher. 



32 HAWLEY ST.,, BOSTON. 



All 

Pigeon Fanciers 

Subscribe 



....FOR THE. 



The Best 

Exclusive 

Pigeon Paper 

in.... 

the World. 



Pigeon 

News 



6 to 20 Pages, illustrated, 
Semi=MonthIy, 



Only $1.00 per Year. 

Two Months on Trial for 25 cents. 

Sample Copy Free. 

C. E. TWOMBLY, P"'^"«her, 

32 Hawley Street, Boston. 



PIGEON AND 

Poultry Supplies. 

EARTHEN NEST PANS 



Every Pigeon Fancier 
Needs These Nests. 




Made of red clay, meas- 
ures about nine inclies 
across the top, with heavy- 
bottom, therefore not easily- 
upset. 



These are the Only Practical Pigfeon Nests on the Market. 

Price .15 each, 2 for .25, 6 for ,50, 12 for $1.00. 

LEG BANDS, Seamless Aluminum and German Silver, for 

all breeds of Pigeons. 

National Message Holders for Homers. 
DR. WENDEL'S PILLS for Going Light, Canker, etc. 

25 cents per box, post paid. 
SALT CAT, a combination of Grit and Tonic for Homing 

and Fancy Pigeons, Birds, etc. Price per Brick 15 cts. 

or by mail 40 cts. 
Our Immense Illustrated Catalogue, describing over 1000 

different articles, Free. Send for one. 

Excelsior Wire & Poultry Supply Co., 

w. p. Russ. Prop. 26-28 Vesey Street, N. Y. City. 



^PR 9 1907 



Jj^.^^^'^^ 0'^ CONGRESS 

002 855 928 l\ 



